Photo reporting in Yemen
Reporting Valerie Dupont Journalist
“Allah Akbar” ! We will kill all the hostages if you do not give us a vehicle ! You are surrounded ! Do not kill the hostages, we will give you a car !” I am 30 kilometers away from Sanaa, the capital of Yemen. The anti-terrorist group demonstrate their power in a training camp in the rocky mountains Men, wearing black hoods and heavily armed, endeavour to persuade the false terrorists to surrender. The operation will last twenty minutes: shooting, fighting, kalachnikov everywhere, cars speeding in...
I am aware that it is only a demonstration, but with the shoutings, the shooting, it seems real. Success of the mission for the yemeni army ! The Al Qaeda threat is consequent.
The imam, Anwar al-Aulaqui, entrenched in the Chabwa valley, is considered by the americans as a fundamentalist very close to the terrorist organization. His acts of war: He supported Nidal Hassan, the man who shot thirteen people last november in the military camp of Fort Hood in Texas. Recently, he confirmed that the Nigerian, Abdulmutallab, author a month later of the unsuccessful attempt to bomb the Amsterdam-Detroit flight, was his disciple. It is impossible to know today the exact number of members in the Yemen network. On the other hand, we know that its creation is an easy matter.
This poor country of the Arabian Peninsula faces three destabilizing issues : war against the Houthis shiites rebels in the northern districts, a separatist movement in the southern districts, and the growing presence of Al-Qaeda in three areas.
During my stay in Sanaa, I had two objectives: checking on the growing importance of the organization and spending some time with the yemenite army. It was only on weekends, that I was able to meet with salafists to talk about Al-Qaeda in Yemen. A good time, as I felt less observed during those days of rest and prayer. I rapidly made contact with a moderate salafist, who understoods that it is better to communicate rather than be wrongly charged. I’ll call him Mohamed to keep him anonymous. He acts friendly, understanding what I wish to know and ready to help. Within two hours, we fix a meeting with Nasser al-Bahri, former bodyguard of Ousama Ben Laden. Today, he lives in a small flat on the outskirts of Sanaa. He first proposes to meet us at the hotel, but I refuse, preferring to interview him at his place. He pretends a power failure, quite frequent night-time in Yemen. However, everyone knows that power failures do not last long. We hop on a taxi immediately feeling well: bumps on the outside, but inside it’s amazing. A luminous coran hanging from the driving-mirror, and decorations all over. Nasser’s building is pretty gloomy. His flat is empty. Only a few pillows are strewn in the reception hall. He tells me of the years spent with Ben Laden. Who else can know him better than his former bodyguard ? I am surpised by his features, his refined face, and the extraordinary kindness in his eyes. Not exactly the portrait of an ex-member of Al-Qaeda... I begin the interview The man is disconcerting, he freely talks about his memories totally mastering his emotions. Except when he recalls the best moments spent close to Ben Laden: his eyes shine “we played football every Friday, arabs against africans, always.... and of course the africans would win...”
Valerie Dupont: How have you been enrolled by Al-Qaeda ?
Nasser al-Bahri: I joined the organization after a long jihad process. I began my training in Bosnia, in Somalia then in Kirghizstan. Cheik Osama Bin Laden was there at that time. He had heard about a group of good muslims and sought to meet us.
Valérie Dupont: In which year was it ?
Nasser al-Bahri: 1996
Valerie Dupont: How long have you stayed with Ben Laden?
Nasser al-Bahri: Four years.
Valerie Dupont: Why did you leave him ?
Nasser al-Bahri: I left Afghanistan, because my wife was sick, and with the permission of
Cheik Osama Laden.
Valerie Dupont: Was he sick at that time ?
Nasser al-Bahri: No, he was in good health, even in better shape than the younger people.
Valerie Dupont: Do you still love him ?
Nasser al-Bahri: As a personality.
Valerie Dupont: What does that mean ?
Nasser al-Bahri: I like the man, I distinguish from the Al-Qaeda network, it’s not the same thing.
Valerie Dupont: He’s a good person ?
Nasser al-Bahri: He’s an “ideal” person.
Valerie Dupont: A good muslim ?
Nasser al-Bahri: A good muslim and an example to the young people.
Valerie Dupont: How much were you paid as a bodyguard ?
Nasser al-Bahri: Nothing. Nothing at all.
Valerie Dupont: You worked for free ?
Nasser al-Bahri: Protecting cheik Oussama Laden was for me a religious obligation, as prayer and fast.. It was at the same time a great honor and my duty as a muslim.
Valerie Dupont: Is Yemen today, the new base of Al-Qaeda ?
Nasser al-Bahri: No. That’s what the europeans think, and they exaggerate. There are a few members. But most of them are in Afghanistan, in Somalia, in Kirghizstan. This being said, the yemeni people support the movement.
Valerie Dupont: How many members Al-Qaeda can dispose of in Yemen ?
Nasser al-Bahri: Between 300 to 500 active members. The number of people who help them in this country, but also elsewhere, is unlimited.
Valerie Dupont: Will this organization succeed in establishing itself everywhere ?
Nasser al-Bahri: It has achieved its objective: fighting the americans face to face. This is what’s happening in Afghanistan, in Irak, and soon perhaps in Yemen.
Valerie Dupont: Are you afraid for you safety ?
Nasser al-Bahri: I have good contacts with the government, because I am under observation (laughter). The fundamentalists may see me as a traitor.
Valerie Dupont: Does it hurt you ?
Nasser al-Bahri: Yes, of course. But I make a big difference between the Al-Qaeda I have known and that of today. The new members have less religious education, perhaps why they believe I’m a traitor.
Valerie Dupont: What would be the solution for Al-Qaeda to cease its actions on the yemeni soil ?
Nasser al-Bahri: As far as I am concerned, knowing Bin Laden well, it would be to dialogue with the enemy, but not directly. There should be mediators.
Valerie Dupont: Who, according to you ?
Nasser al-Bahri: Religious people. They are good intermediates because the young people listen to them.
Valerie Dupont: To which religious persons are you thinking in particular ?
Nasser al-Bahri: Cheik Zindani, cheik Mafhouz and cheik Al-Raimi.
Valerie Dupont: What do you think of cheik Al-Raimi ?
Nasser al-Bahri: His speeches are based on ideology. He teaches the young people good things. I listen to his records and books. Bin Laden met him once in Saudi Arabia. He also reads his writings and listens to his records.
Valerie Dupont: How was a day with Bin Laden ?
Nasser al-Bahri: Until September 11, he lived a normal life; just like everybody, prayed at 5 o’clock, when he lived in Afghanistan, in Kandahar, near the airport. We assured his security until his home. He practised many sports, and was a good horse rider.
Valerie Dupont: Why did he need bodyguards before 2001 ?
Nasser al-Bahri: He was a target for certain western and arab countries, since 1996. There had been attempts on his life.
Valerie Dupont: How many bodyguards did he have ?
Nasser al-Bahri: About 15.
Valerie Dupont: Have you been present when terrorist plans were made ?
Nasser al-Bahri: First, one should not say terrorist attacks. Those were legitimate, legal, acts of resistance.
Valerie Dupont: Let me put the question again...
Nasser al-Bahri: I have not been present during the planning. But I fought for Al-qaeda.
Friday morning in Sanaa. Wearing a niqab, I am waiting in the empty hall of the hotel. I see without being seen, and though I feel imprisoned, I know I will only be wearing it for one day. I also feel protected from “invisible” glances, it’s quite agreeable, especially for a journalist. A “friend” arrives who is to take me to Alrabh, a zone where certain members of Al-Qaeda are found, bombed by the army, a few weeks ago. A “none-yemeni” must have a travel permit in order to quit Sanaa. Only a few zones are allowed. It is totally forbidden to go to Alrabh. I’m travelling there together with a friend photographer, and a cheik from the region of Alrabh who knows where the ten checkpoints we have to cross are situated. The army regularly moves its checkpoints, for security reasons.
Only a 100-kilometer drive and we reach the zone. We enter a mountain village, deserted and rocky. Children play in front of broken-down traditional homes. We are far from the warm atmosphere of Sanaa. After harsh negotiations, I am finally allowed to enter the room where men chew qat (appetite-cutter, slightly hallucinating). Before entering, I am warned not to to ask questions that may offend them, as their women rarely speak. I feel that my friend is not very much at ease in this village. He urges me to be quick. The living-room is typically yemeni, a narrow rectangular room, with welcoming cushions as only furniture. Men dressed in their traditional costumes are calmy chewing qat. My presence does not seem to bother them, but I feel I’m not welcome. I ask two or three questions concerning the presence of Al-Qaeda, and get condescending and haughty looks. The chief answers calmly : “Al-Qaeda is not our problem. We are shepherds. What happens elsewhere, or in Sanaa, does not concern us, we are peaceful here.” The message is clear, but I cannot resist asking a further question. “And if the Americans come, how would you react ?” My friend translates, and suddenly the atmosphere eases down and everybody laughs. “If the Americans come, we’ll take up arms !” answers the chief. Il feel ill at ease all of a sudden, it’s time to go. I cover up my face with the three veils provided by the niqab. Not funny at all ! This morning, it’s a disguise, and I now sense all the violence of this “prison”. On the way back, we go through the ten checkpoints. Without a glance, as wearing a niqab “I don’t exist” anyway. Arriving at the hotel, I now better understand the security measures filtering the entrance to the building. A relatively impressive bolter is installed. Some ten agents check under the car. The trunk must be opened and a TNT dectector is passed over the vehicle. Yes, security is at maximum in Sanaa, for the simple reason that Al-Qaeda is settling in.
The next day, I must meet with cheik Majeed Al-Raimi. He is one of the three religious imams who could eventually act as an intermediate between the terrosist organization and the government of Sanaa. My taxi driver is surprised when I ask him to drive me to the Sanaa Bin Mua’ath Mosque in the Faj Attan quarter. We meet on the first floor in the traditional yemeni living-room. I am not wearing a niqab, but a long black gown and a veil over my head. Cheik Al-Raimi has a sweet face. With his long beard, he looks quite protective. But his dark eyes express his hatred of the west. When I ask him what he thinks about al-Qaeda, his answer chills me: “What ? What’s wrong with al-Qaeda ?” He explains that this movement is not reprehensible, as it name means “the base”. Consequently, the organization is dominated by a religious motivation. Of course, he does not approve of the attacks mounted by them. Some of his sons join us.
After being introduced, the atmosphere becomes gloomy. The elder son wearing a white gown, a long black beard, does not hide his hostility. However, he remains silent during the entire interview. His father starts to show signs of irritation, reaching a peak when I inquire about his reaction should the american troops land.
Cheik Al-Raimi smiles, stays calm, but his anger pierces through his crystalline voice. “Our religion urges us to fight against foreign troops, considered as occupation forces. We must therefore fight !.” I am not surprised by his reply. Recently, more than 150 yemeni leaders have signed a fatwa against any army seeking to back the government.
For President Saleh, at the head of the country since many years, it is not an easy task. On the one side, people fiercely opposed to any international military intervention, and on the other side the United States strongly insisting to give a helping hand. As of today, only a few american experts offer strategic aid. But, this year, Washington announced a 70 million dollar aid. A poisoned gift for President Saleh.
I then ask a series of delicate questions. Cheik Al-Raimi answers word for word.
Valerie Dupont: But, if the American come it is to fight against Al-Qaeda ?
Cheik Al-Raimi: What is the problem with Al-Qaeda ? The question is not to know whether I like them or not ! Those who have committed crimes must be judged ! If this organization commits criminal assaults, we do not need american troops to judge them. Our country is a sovereign country !
Valerie Dupont: What do you think about the western countries ?
Cheik Al-Raimi: Those countries support the israeli occupation of Palestine. Or yet, fight the talibans. What did the talibans do ?
Valerie Dupont: What do you think about Osama Bin Laden ?
Cheik Al-Raima: Osama Bin Laden is one of the most religious men in the islamic world. He makes mistakes sometimes, but not always. This man has a deep knoweldge of islam. One of his great actions, was to fight the Russians in Afghanistan, and one of his mistakes were the attacks against Manhattan and the Pentagon in 2001.
Valerie Dupont: What do you think of the women enrolled in the yemeni army ?
Cheilk Al-Raimi: Oh, it’s haram (“a sin”) ! In our holy religion, we protect women. Their place is at home, they take care of the children; we have a lot of respect for them. This is why they must never take up arms Its pure nonsense.
Valerie Dupont: However, you must know that a squadron of 54 women has been formed by the army ?
Cheik Al-Raimi: It’s an insult to these women !
Valerie Dupont: But if the members of Al-Qaeda use the niqab to disguise themselves as women, and a woman can go through a search only by another woman, is it not legitimate ?
Cheik Al-Raimi: No. We the yemenis are strong enough to fight against any enemy. It’s the people of the western countries, and more precisely the americans, who have imposed this gadget !
Valerie Dupont: So, you believe that a woman in the army cannot be a good muslim ? Cheik Cheik Al-Raimi: You know, those girls they have recruited come from families of none-believers. A good father can never agree to his daughter carrying a weapon.
Cheik Al-Raimi will not give an opinion on the government. Too risky nowadays. Among the most popular of the three salafist cheiks, are Abdulah Majeed Zindani and Hussein Omer Mafhouz making the forefront of the medias. The latter has been to prison for words judged “ too provocative.”
Once the interview over, the cheik, true to local hospitality, invites me to have lunch together with his sons. The youngest sons are surprised to see me share their tasty meal sitting on the floor. A hamburger is discreetly laid beside me. I am touched by the gesture. But I prefer the saltah ! Conversation becomes less serious. They ask me what I know of Islam. I confess that I only know about the recitation of the five pillars. He is nevertheless suprised that a none-believer knows about them. I question him again: “Have you already travelled to the West ?” With a disgusted look, he answers:
“those countries indulge in pornography”. It’s time for us to quit Cheik Al-Raimi who must perform his ablutions, to be the first at the mosque because of his quality of imam. I leave him to his preaching, where the words Israel, yeoudi (“jew”) and America are repeatedly used with fury.
Back to Sanaa. The taxi driver curses the americans... One of the main roads of the city is blocked, as it leads to the American Embassy, which has recently been put under heavy security. I learn that some persons from the western countries (canadians, french....) converted to islam, study at the Al-Iman University. I attempt to go there. Two teenagers holding Kalashnikov stand at a makeshift checkpoint at the university entrance. After several minutes of harsh negotiations, I go back to my taxi, as it is impossible to get in. How odd that a place dedicated to the transmission of knowledge, should be closed. Why does the government tolerate such a situation ? I get no answer. The dark zones add up.
I finally have a meeting with the antiterrorist feminine section. The guards in front of the building refuse to let me in, although I have the necessary authorizations, and am even accompanied by a military. Nothing doing. I spot two westerners in the building and I understand : the americans forbid my entrance. They have orders to stay away from journalists. It is therefore useless to insist. They promise that I will have no problem tomorrow. In the meanwhile, I go to the police school for women. The atmosphere is relaxed. I meet with the director of the establishment. He kindly answers all my questions in a “politically correct” tone. According to him, Yemen has a very good army as well as a high quality police force... I ask: “If the americans propose to give you a helping hand ?” The answer is immediate and spontaneous: “It’s out of the question ! We’ll seize all military weapons, and you know what, even the foetus will be against them !” No comment.
I start visiting the school. In one of the classes, a teacher shows how to disassemble and assemble a kalachnikov. Soon, they will have to do it eyes shut. Very concentrated, the future policewomen take notes. I get to the shooting cabin. Fifteen young girls are waiting by groups of three for their turn to practise shooting at a target representing a woman held as a hostage by two terrorists. Although they master their movements and weapons, the shooting is not yet to the target. The instructors assure me that precision will progress very fast.
The next day I return to the antiterrorist section where I am expected. Four young women wearing a hood, and heavily armed, are waiting for me together with their teacher. They demonstrate the perfect handling of weapons, very professional indeed. I ask for permission to question one of them. Ourad is designated. During the whole interview, in full sunlight, she maintains a martial posture. This 19-year old girl wished to serve her country ever since she was a child. Her spare time is devoted to study. When I ask questions about Al-Qaeda, the reply fuses: “No comment.” Ourad coldly gives me some standard answers, almost reciting. I am not the first journalist to interview her, and she knows her lesson well. When I tell her that the salafists consider that “an armed woman is a sin”, she gets irritable. “They are a minority here. What they believe is of no importance, proof being that we are here.” A gleam of truth in this military antiterrorist base ? Anyway, I’m not surprised when the instructor firmly puts an end to the interview.
I decide to change atmosphere, going to the qat market where it’s quite cheerful. Here, practically everybody chews this herb, both men and women, even if it is forbidden by religion. A real plague for the economy, which slows down from 2 o’clock, so difficult is it to continue to work. Health is also impaired: pregnant women do not feed themselves correctly, and children face growth problems. After having tasted it, I must say it’s atrociously bitter. My disgusted look makes them laugh.
All along my stay, I was impressed by the kindness, hospitality and smiles of the inhabitants. I feel under the strange spell of this country. Dignity, sense of honor, hospitality, are specific values. On the marketplace, I am again surprised to see posters of Saddam Hussein on some stalls. When I ask why, I get mocking laughs, and I get the message that the landing of american forces here would only play the game of Al-Qaeda.
The yemeni army is on several fronts, with of course the north of the country. The movement led by Abdul Malek al Houthis, leader of the Shiite Zaidis sect, call for the establishment of a state led by the imams (both spiritually and politically). For the time being, the yemeni army holds the fort. After many years of war, the soldiers are quite experienced. One has to hope that Washington will not play into the game of Al-Qaeda. ....by sending troops.